Riebeek Kasteel

A Hidden Gem in the Riebeek Valley

Dutch Reformed Church

 I visited Riebeek Kasteel this past holiday, one of the oldest towns in South Africa, located approximately 87 km from Cape Town. The historic town is somewhat of an oasis in an otherwise brown and desolate landscape (which is even more brown at the moment as a result of severe water shortages in the Western Cape). As you come down the pass en route to the town, you are welcomed with a landscape of vibrant greens courtesy of olive trees and vineyards, two of the towns greatest exports. You may be wondering, as I was, where the name of the town comes from because there is no kasteel (castle) to be seen. A very friendly and helpful lady at the visitor's centre, which also houses some beautiful artwork, informed me that the original settlers thought that the top of the mountain around the town resembled the bastions of a castle while the Riebeek part of the name comes from Jan van Riebeek, a Commander who initiated an exploratory expedition that resulted in the founding of the town.

When visiting Riebeek Kasteel it is probably best to park in what could be described as the town square and walk from there, which is the best way to explore the many interesting shops and cafes dispersed throughout the town. The main street boasts several eateries, galleries and gift and décor shops. Aitsa and A La Maison are two shops that you should amble into. Aitsa sells a variety of tasty treats, including brownies, classic South African candy, rusks, biscuits and what looked like divine milktarts. However there are plenty of other treasures to discover in the store, which is attached to a second hand book store for more great finds. A La Maison focuses on home décor and gardening, but has a small section of unusual children's toys.

The most overwhelming store, in terms of size and the sheer number of beautiful décor items on offer, is Crystal and Twine. Visitors are welcomed by two giant bunnies (a preview of the plethora of adorable bunnies available inside) and a fountain that looks as though it has been transplanted from a French or Italian villa. You are guaranteed to find stunning gifts for any occasion or various décor items to give your home a bit of a makeover. After all the shopping, you will certainly have worked up an appetite and there are many restaurants and quaint cafes to satisfy a hungry visitor. I enjoyed a delicious homemade chicken pie with chips and gravy at Wicked Treats, a small café and bakery where visitors can enjoy a variety of baked goods and wicked milkshakes under the shade of a huge tree.

Crystal and Twine

Main Street also boasts the colonial-looking Royal Hotel, the oldest hotel in South Africa, which is famous for its Gin and Tonic happy hour between 17:00 and 18:00 every day, served on the porch. Unfortunately I did not get to enjoy this tradition but I have put it on my to-do list for my next visit. A short walk from the hotel is the town's most beautiful building, namely the Dutch Reformed Church, framed by beautiful gardens. Another church to visit, De Oude Kerk, is located on the opposite end of the town on Hermon Street. This church is now a museum (which is free to visit) that boasts many interesting historical artefacts from a horse-drawn hearse that has a coffin inside to farming implements, kitchenware and an old pram. Rumour has it that the church is haunted (especially in the vicinity of the pram) although I did not feel any strange presences during my visit; I would have welcomed a cold spot because of the day's unrelenting heat!

 Royal Hotel

De Oude Kerk Museum

A few kilometres west lies Riebeek Kasteel's sister town of Ribeek Wes (West) and a little beyond that is a huge PPC cement factory where, bizarrely, a national monument stands in the form of the birthplace and childhood home of Jan Smuts, one of South Africa's former Prime Ministers. The historic thatched roof cottage has been restored and visitors can wander through the house, showcasing authentic furniture from the period, and a building that features photographs and historical documents detailing Smuts' life. The monument is free to visit.

Jan Smuts Cottage

Riebeek Kasteel has been on my list of places to visit for a while now and it has now moved to my list of places to re-visit. Besides the scenic beauty of the town and its historical buildings, I was struck by how welcoming and friendly everyone was. There is a palpable sense of community and pride in that community that is hard to find these days. I left with my wallet a little emptier, my stomach a little fuller and a brownie in my hand for the road.